Category Archives: travel

Dinner last night

Last night I was told I’d be taken to a “BBQ” restaurant (i.e., one that serves grilled meats; these bear no resemblance to American BBQ but are delicious in their own right). Sure enough, I was, and the food was tasty and COPIOUS. First, with a Bulgarian beer, the appetizers. They included eggplant in what […]

Tarnovo: sights, noms, cats, and other splendors

We left Tarnovo two days ago, but I’ve yet to catch up on reporting my travels (these posts take a bit of time, you know).  But here are some holiday snaps in Tarnovo and surrounding areas. Our first order of business once we parked the car (some distance from our pension) was to have lunch. […]

Bulgaria: food, cats, and other delights

Yesterday, on our way back to Sofia from Tarnovo, we stopped at an ethnic “museum” (I don’t recall its name) where they have several original 200-year-old houses on display as well as prehistoric skeletons and relics and a couple of good restaurants. Oh, and lots of feral cats. The museum consists of several dwellings interspersed […]


Here are a few holiday snaps from Sofia, just so you can see some of the sights of Bulgaria’s capital. The most famous tourist site in the city is the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.  It’s fairly new, having been completed in 1912. It’s rarely used for services, I’m told, but can hold 10,000 people and, before the Soviet […]

Monastery of the Transfiguration of God

Today we visited a famous monastery near Tarnovo (itself 2.5 hours from Sofia): the Monastery of the Transfiguration of God, reportedly dating to the 14th century. No monks were evident (the place seems to be undergoing a renovation).  Located in the woods up on a mountain, it was very peaceful, and I got a special treat, as […]

The Big Nom in Sofia

The night before last, several people connected with the “Ratio” science event repaired to one of the two most famous “local cuisine” (i.e. Bulgarian) restaurants in Sofia: a place called “Under the Linden Tree,” which of course is nearly the name of a famous street in Berlin. Below you can see the restaurant from the outside after it […]

Noms in Bulgaria: Thursday dinner and Friday lunch

Dinner Thursday and lunch on Friday (during the tour that Vassi gave me) was a warmup for the Big Traditional Bulgarian Feed on Friday night; pictures of that will follow. Can you read Cyrillic? If so, you’ll recognize this ubquitous food item: Dinner Thurday, after I arrived: a white beer and gnocci with spinach, goat […]

Note to readers: peregrinations

I’m back in Chicago for 1.5 days, but after tomorrow evening I’m not sure how regular my connection to the Internet will be. I will, therefore, ask readers to hold off sending me articles until I return from Bulgaria on Oct. 27.  If you have something that you absolutely need to call to my attention, […]

A “light” lunch with Josh Ozersky

First, be aware that there is no such thing as a light lunch with Josh Ozersky. I knew this well, and though we were scheduled to tour the Cantonese restaurants of Chinatown at 2 p.m., I didn’t eat a bite before that. Josh is a well known food critic, having written for New York Magazine, Time […]

NYC: lunch

Since my room at the W Hotel in Union Square wasn’t ready at 11:30, I had to cool my heels for over an hour. But that was just time to nip across the park to the Union Square Cafe, a New York institution, to try its vaunted menu. The place has received many gastronomic accolades. I started off with […]


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